On the problems of “reading” the costume in the visual sources

Abstract

This article provides an overview of the numerous problems associated with the analysis of costume in the visual arts of traditional societies. Most of them are often underestimated. Among the most serious difficulties are those associated with the schematic and fragmented images and the desire to present a complete reconstruction of the costume. Problems in interpretation are created by the poses of the characters, the use of old iconography (including foreign ones), and the dominance of stereotyped images of foreigners. In ancient art, the principle of verismo is very important, associated with emphasizing the socially significant elements of the costume. Most often, the initiators of costume innovations were the rulers, as well as their favorites and other people in their environment. The motives behind the behavior of “fashionista” rulers are usually unclear. Each group of the most popular subjects is associated with different sets, costume types and different symbolic interpretations. The article discusses its specificity with different ways of interpreting images – glorification, methods of individualizing the appearance of the same type of characters in groups, etc. Many problems are associated with the adequacy of the reproduction of colors, with the level of its conventionality, with the degree of its preservation, with the capabilities of masters, and with the interpretation of materials from which the elements of the costume were made. It is difficult to interpret the perception in specific societies of archaic elements of cut and silhouette, to clarify the costume of some seasons of the year. With the dominance of gala and ceremonial costume, they can’t be often distinguished.